10 great places to sink your teeth into a burger
Writer George Motz has sampled hundreds of incredible variations, many chronicled in his book Hamburger America
(Running Press, $20) and in his free app, Burger GPS. He seeks places
that have been in business at least 20 years and favors uncomplicated
offerings made with fresh ground beef. "The burger's not fussed over at
these places. There's no truffle oil. It's very simple, and
extraordinarily satisfying." He shares some favorite places .
J.G. Melon
New York
New York has no shortage of fancy restaurants, but Motz prefers this friendly Upper East Side neighborhood bar, which serves a standard, straight-forward burger. "A lot of burger places in New York City
have trouble coming to terms with the white square bun, but J.G. Melon
has embraced it," Motz says. "They offer cheddar cheese. That's about as
highbrow as it gets." 212-744-0585
The Apple Pan
Los Angeles
The
restaurant's U-shaped counter, with its 26 red-leather stools, is a
throwback to another era. So are the burgers served wrapped in wax
paper. "It seems like the 1950s came to a close and nobody told them.
It's almost freaky how authentic this place is," Motz says. He makes it
his first stop whenever he's in L.A. and recommends the hickory burger,
served with mayonnaise, special sauce, pickles and lettuce. The Apple
Pan is open late, and it occasionally serves Hollywood stars. But be
warned: It's closed on Mondays. 310-475-3585
El Mago de las Fritas
Miami
This Cuban hamburger, served in the Little Havana
neighborhood, comes on chewy Cuban bread and is topped with julienned
fried potatoes. El Mago's version, which includes spiced ground sausage,
came from the island nation, where it had originally been adapted from
an American version. "It's a genuine expression of the Cuban-American
experience," Motz says. 305-266-8486; elmagodelasfritas.com
Guy's Meat Market
Houston
Unlike
most burgers, these are smoked at low heat like barbecue, and not
grilled. The meat is "moist and smoky. One of the most unique hamburger
experiences I've had in my life," Motz says. He suggests skipping
lettuce and tomato and sticking to barbecue sauce, onions and pickles.
And come early. The market runs out of burgers most every day. 713-747-6800
Motz's Burgers
Detroit
Although
he is no relation to the owners, Motz says he applauds the authenticity
of this restaurant, where small balls of ground beef and chopped onion
are grilled into American sliders. "They're doing it the exact same way
burgers were made back in the 1920s," he says. The neighborhood, across
the street from the city's produce terminal, is off-putting, he warns,
but not unsafe. 313-843-9186
Keller's Drive-In
Dallas
This
local chain serves what Motz calls a smashburger — a ball of ground
beef, smashed flat on the grill. "It's great, fresh food, and it's
extraordinarily satisfying," particularly when accompanied by an
ice-cold beer, he says. Motz suggests ordering the No. 5 — double meat,
cheese, lettuce, tomato and special sauce on a soft poppy-seed bun,
delivered to your car. 214-368-1209
Mr. Bartley's Burger Cottage
Cambridge, Mass.
This
Harvard Square eatery has made a science of producing the perfect
burger. The kitchen uses a special grinder that doesn't heat up the
meat; cheese is melted separately before being added to the final
product. This pursuit of perfection is the work of Bill Bartley, son of
the founder. "He's cocksure and has the burgers to back it up," says
Motz, who recommends skipping the fancy toppings and ordering a
cheeseburger with grilled onions. "The beef is his specialty. I don't
know what he's doing, but it will take you somewhere." 617-354-6559; mrbartley.com
Top Notch Beefburgers
Chicago
Motz
says this restaurant serves one of his all-time favorite burgers, but
most Chicagoans have never ventured to the 60-year-old South Side
institution. "They actually have hanging meat in a cooler in the back
of the restaurant, and they grind their own, making it one of the
freshest burgers I've ever had." 773- 445-7218
Bobcat Bite
Santa Fe
Although Motz generally prefers his burgers unadorned, he's a fan of New Mexico's
green chile cheeseburger, made here with naturally raised, organic,
hormone-free beef. And the cook at Bobcat, although a vegetarian, makes a
perfect version. "I liken him to Beethoven being deaf," Motz says. 505- 983-5319; bobcatbite.com
Rotier's Restaurant
Nashville
This
eatery delivers a classy burger, using French bread instead of a
standard bun. Motz likes it served with cheese and accompanied by a side
of spicy fried pickles. "It's a very straightforward burger cooked on a
flat-top grill," he says. Another standout is the patty melt — a
grilled cheese sandwich with a burger inside. 615-327-9892
